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Tubers And Winter Storage For Dahlia

Like every other garden flower, the dahlia has its special pests, and reknowned Dahlia grower Conrad Faust has been fighting them every year. During past seasons he found malathion spray to be very effective against most dahlia pests. He reported, however, that there was a serious outbreak of red spider in many dahlia gardens in the Atlanta area. Sprays seemed to be ineffective, but upon recommendation of the state entomologist the plants were sprayed or dusted with sulfur and this brought the trouble under control. Mr. Faust says this same sulfur is also excellent for the control of mildew which often attacks dahlia foliage in hot, humid weather.

Conrad is always being asked how he digs and stores his dahlia tubers.

The clumps are dug very carefully so as to avoid breaking or injuring the tubers. He then washes all the soil off them with a hose; next he cuts off all the fibrous roots from the tubers, and after that he allows them to dry for a day or two in the garden. Ho is very careful, of course, to label each clump as it is dug, using an indelible pencil for this purpose. Some of Mr. Faust’s clumps are too large and cumbersome for storing, and so he cuts the largest ones in half and dusts the cut portions with sulfur before putting them away for the winter. The smaller clumps are turned upside down to allow all the moisture to drain from the stems.

When there only a few clumps to be stored, Mr. Faust suggests keeping them in boxes of dry sand. When the number is large, however, they are more easily handled when stored in peatmoss. He always advises dusting any injured portions with sulfur to prevent rot.

Although some dahlia growers complain of their tubers shriveling during winter storage, Mr. Faust says that if the plants are well fertilized and grown right the tubers will never shrivel. He inspects his clumps several times during the winter, not for shriveling, but for any signs of stem rot. If he finds any, the rotted portion is cut away and the clump is dusted with sulfur again and returned to the peatmoss.

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Safe Keeping Of Vegetable Plants While Growing

When growing vegetables from seeds and the new plants poke their head out of the soil, transformation begins.

The energy required for this process in the leafy laboratory comes from sunlight. That is why your vegetable plot should be in a sunny position and why plants do not thrive in shade. The rows should be arranged to run north and south in order to get as much sunlight as possible, and they should he planned so that tall-growing plants such as corn and tomatoes (when staked) do not cast shadows on lower-growing plants.

For this reason, these are usually planted at the back of a vegetable plot. Plants should be spaced widely enough to allow the leaves full room to catch the light. This illustrates the importance of making a Orden plan as your first step of the season. It not only assures growing the different vegetables in their best locations, but it helps to prevent the all too common mistake of attempting to grow far more than the household requires.

Root Growth

The rootlet that has come from the seed pushes its way downward. It may develop into a large tap root for food storage, as in carrots or turnips, which if left to themselves store food in one season and spring up from this in the next to complete their life cycle by seed bearing, or the rootlet may fork and re-fork to produce a system of spreading roots.

The power of roots is almost proverbial, but a little rootlet has small chance against a hard and impenetrable soil; it will make much better progress in a smooth bed of fine and even texture from which stones have been removed. A carrot rootlet meeting a stone is likely to fork around it. If your soil is both deep and smooth, you can grow the desirable long, slender type of carrot, but. if it is too stony to be completely cleared you must he content with the short, stumpy type such as Oxheart.

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