Bulbs to force in the greenhouse can be brought in now from the pit where they were buried if you planted “prepared” bulbs. Ordinary bulbs should be left for another two weeks or more so that they can build up a stronger root system. Put the bulbs into the dark for a week to compel them to make longer growth. Greenhouse owners create dark areas to put the plants in the darkness. This also helps hold the warmth that encourages faster growth.

Give hyacinths the light when three inches high and tulips when they are five inches. The first lot of narcissus can be treated in a similar manner, although later batches may be put on top of the bench in the light. Bring in a few pans at a time so that there will be a continuous succession of bloom. Forcing bulbs requires lots of water to build up good stems and a seeding of liquid food is a good idea. When they show their flower buds, finish them off in a cool house.

Lily-of-the-valley forces very nicely and takes about four weeks from time of planting. Do not attempt to force pips from your own yard. The results will be unsatisfactory. Buy the pips from a reliable store – the best pips come from Germany. The pips force in any kind of medium that will hold water, such as sphagnum moss, sand, vermiculite or soil. Plant with the top of the pips showing and place them under the bench to start them quickly. When there is five or six inches of growth bring them into the light. Water copiously.

Amaryllis bulbs are potted in December. Plant only one bulb in each pot. Five- or 6-inch pots are large enough. Pot firmly leaving one-half of the bulb exposed in three parts screened soil, two parts humus and one part cow manure. Established amaryllis should have the top inch or so of soil around the bulb scraped away and replaced with a good compost soil to which bone-meal has been added at the rate of a handful to each half dozen pots.

Easter Lillies can be planted this month. There are several types that flower well 100 days from planting in an 80-degree house. Pot them into 5-inch pots and place them under the bench until they make two or three inches of growth. Then they go on top of the bench in full light. Water sparingly until growth starts in earnest. Then water heavily.

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March winds can do more damage in Northern gardens to some plants than the hard freezes of winter. Plants are now moving from a dormant to an active state. Growth impulses take place not in the roots, but in the buds, which are exposed to all changes in temperature.

Azaleas, forsythia and other early-flowering shrubs become active with the slightest rise in temperature. Chill, drying winds can harm even plants under cover. Be careful therefore, about uncovering plants too soon; although covered, many will have started into growth. Sudden exposure at this time can be disastrous. Uncover gradually, leaving some protective covering until the new growth becomes acclimated.

Flower Shows

The big spring flower shows give us some release from the urge to “get going” in the garden. Take full advantage of these spectacles. Sure, they’re glamour-bed, and perhaps certain plant combinations which would not naturally bloom together may disturb your sense of the practical. But consider the skill and knowledge involved in forcing the many plants into growth and bloom for a specific date – even to outmaneuvering the weather! Try to get a glimpse of the background, not just the effect. Take a notebook along. Look through the pamphlets you are bound to collect. Ask questions. Study and appraise plant material and combinations. Study the reactions of your fellow gardeners as well as those who are not gardeners.

Outdoor Preparation

In the milder parts of the northern area, digging and seeding can begin from mid-March to late March, or just as soon as the frost is out of the ground. This year vegetables will receive more emphasis than ever. Like the pioneers, we are necessarily being forced to live closer to the soil. Fortunate is he who has a piece of land to till. There’s a satisfaction beyond measure in making it productive.

If your ground is workable now, get your plowing or digging done. Lighter soils can be put into shape sooner than heavier soils. The latter can be improved in texture by adding coarse sand or coal ashes. Sawdust will supply some organic matter, but do not use too much of it. Organic matter is an absolute must; without it, production cannot be maintained. Green cover crops, compost, manure, leafmold or plain refuse are all good sources. With any of these, use 3 pounds of superphosphate and 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 square feet. Add half the fertilizer to the soil at digging time, the other half on the surface at the final preparation stage.

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